Thursday, June 28, 2007

Article From SubmitYOURArticle: Dispelling Some Common Hydroponics Myths

Hi Richard

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Title: Dispelling Some Common Hydroponics Myths
Word Count: 847
Author: Katie Brown
Category: Home & Family
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Katie Brown
http://www.cnidr.org

Dispelling Some Common Hydroponics Myths
Hydroponics growing is riddled with myths and false
statements which get spread around the growing community in
the ever elusive quest for extra yield. Some of them stem
from lack of growing knowledge whilst others are created by
unscrupulous companies attempting to sell products which
don't actually work.

Water temperature – Your nutrient solution should feel COLD
at 21oC NOT WARM. 21 degrees centigrade is the ideal
temperature, it's warm enough to stimulate good growth
while cold enough to be able to carry the maximum amount of
oxygen (O2) for our purposes. As the water rises above this
temperature the water can carry less and less oxygen.

Timers on NFT systems – Once the roots are out of your 3"
cubes or baskets, you should run your nutrient pump 24
hours a day, certainly never have it off for more than 15
minutes at a time, even during lights off. Otherwise brown
coloured cell damage may occur on the root surface as the
cooling caused by evaporation of moisture off the roots
damage it's surface. It's often better to run the solution
all the time, this also helps maintain constant root zone
temperature.

CO2 and Carbon in your nutrient solution – The vegetative
leafy part of the plant above the surface feeds on Carbon
dioxide. The roots feed on and in association with Oxygen.
There is no benefit to putting carbon or carbon dioxide
into the nutrient solution on it's own. However some of the
additives do contain some carbon based compounds in
association with other ingredients.

Nutrient meter reading – Because everybody has tap water
with a different start cF and the fact that plant needs
vary from room to room, it's hard to just give people
optimum readings to aim for. cF meters are more useful for
maintaining the correct strength on a day to day basis in
re-circulating hydroponics systems once the optimum has
already been determined. After evaluation of the plants
reaction to the strength, small adjustments can also be
made using the meter.

Feed strength – Not all plants feed the same amount, not
even close relatives of the same varieties so don't believe
anyone who tells you otherwise! Environmental conditions
also affect feeding, more light = more food. As a general
guide use 1/4 to 1/2 strength hydroponics nutrient solution
for young plants, and ½ to ¾ strength for larger plants.
Most manufacturers full strength is equivalent to about
1200ppm or cF17 (with water cF 0), this is good for most
species and varieties of plants. Some tomatoes may need a
bit more, and lettuces would require a chunk less but you
realy need to experiment with the specific variety of plant
you are using to determine the optimum feed strength.

Leaf colour loss and associated rusty spots – These two
things, particularly when associated together are usually
caused by some environmental factor and NOT a nutrient
deficiency. Unless you are seriously underfeeding or
overfeeding, the feed strength you use will generally not
be the cause. It is more likely to be the light too close,
nutrient too warm, not enough air exchange, too cold
nights, wind burn, grow room too dry or another
environmental factor. Don't always believe the worst and
assume that your feed strength is wrong.

Stretching – Plants can stretch or elongate. They may do
this if there is not enough light, they may also do this if
they have too much light or heat because the light is too
close. Or it may be just genetics. There is no single
reason that can be pinpointed as the cause of your plants
stretching – don't believe anyone who tells you there is!

Input Air – As a hobby grower, for the best results,
ideally use indoor air as input air for your grow room and
expel to the outside. Outdoor fresh air inputted into the
grow room can cause temperature, humidity and bug problems.
Indoor air from a house has a better temperature and higher
CO2 content, the extracted air should then ideally leave
the building or be extracted to another room or area. Don't
assume that input air from outside will be "cleaner" or
better for your plants – it's simply not the case!

Air Cooled Shades – In line fans attached cool shades/
Jetstreams/ air cooled lights must blow through the shade.
Sucking air through the shade will NOT work as well at
cooling your lamp.

pH Adjustment in re-circulating systems – in re-circulating
hydroponics systems including gro-tanks and particularly
when using systems with rockwool slabs and hard water, the
pH will often rise on a daily basis. Don't adjust it right
down every day or you may end up with nutrient lock out
from excess phosphoric acid. Instead don't be afraid to let
it drift up for a day or two, this may be the lesser of the
two evils. Constant adjustment will damage your plants, not
help them!

Cold – Too cold a nutrient solution or air temperature at
night (lights Off) can seriously affect your yield. Try to
keep water and air temperature up to 21 degrees centigrade
to avoid damaging your yield.


----------------------------------------------------
Hopefully this will destroy some of the more common
misconceptions, but if you have any questions or aren't
sure if you've fallen for a growing myth then please call
Growell, Hydroponics and Plant lighting, by visit our
website at http://www.growell.co.uk .

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