Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Understanding Dog Behavior

Article Title: Understanding Dog Behavior
Author: David Beart

Dogs are considered the most genuinely happy creatures on
earth. Their entire day is filled with you whether you are there
or not. They are waiting for you, sleeping on your bed, watching
for you out the window, wondering where you are while they are
patiently waiting for you in their crate.

Once you come home it's all about you. Your attention, your
love, your food, your commands, and of course, your time. For an
animal that revolves his whole life around you, it can be
confusing why he does some of the things he does. If he loves
you so much, why is he destroying your shoes? If you are the
light in his life, why is he ignoring you when you come home?

Dogs have a very unique way of expressing themselves. Most
people believe that dogs have and show genuine emotion such as
love and fear and even anger. We understand that when they sit
at the door and bark they are telling us they need to go
outside. We understand that when we have a leash in our hand and
they get a little goofy that they are excited about the upcoming
walk. Understanding their more subtle or destructive cues takes
a little insight into your dog's world.

Returning Home Behavior

Some dogs get so excited that you are home after a weekend away
they completely get beside themselves with joy. They follow you
around and may even be uncharacteristically clingy as you wander
about the house. Others get so excited when you first walk in
the door, and then leave you in complete peace for several
hours. People usually say that he is angry with you for leaving
in the first place.

Most experts say their behavior is more about security than
anything. You are your dog's entire world and when for some
reason you disappear for a long period of time, and there is a
sudden change in his routine, his security is thrown a bit. He
is very happy to see you but he also needs a little reassurance
that everything is getting back to normal. Some dogs do this by
following you around the house until they are sure, and others
do this from a more observatory stance. Either way your canine
family member is just looking for reassurance and his typical
routine to return.

The Canine Garbage Disposal

He knows better and he knows that you know he knows better.
However, every chance he gets you see him scampering off with
something that you just absolutely don't want him to chew. He
eats your best shoes while you're in the shower, the corner of
the bedspread while you're getting dressed, and the phone cord
while you were talking on it. And you haven't even made it to
breakfast yet. As much as you love him you are contemplating the
moral issues of drop kicking him right out the door. You've
tried everything that you can think of and yet he is still
eating everything in sight. He is beyond the age where teething
causes chewing but yet he still can't seem to find his own toys
to consume.

There are two key factors in a garbage disposal dog. The first
and easiest to solve is a health problem relating to his teeth
and gums. If his mouth is bothering him, he is going to chew on
everything he can. Start with a vet visit to rule out any
periodontal issues.

The more likely culprit of his unflattering behavior is stress
and anxiety. Yes, your happy go lucky guy can suffer from
stress. Has there been a change in the household such as a new
baby, dramatically increased arguing or is someone who is
supposed to be there suddenly gone?

For starter, confine him when you can't watch him, although
preferably with you. A puppy gate here can go a long way in
simple things like keeping an eye on him while you are showering
and watching his every move while you are getting dressed. Often
the hurried morning is a higher anxiety period for your dog.

Then begin to address the problem. Make sure there's an
appropriate toy available to him at all times and make a big
deal about it when he eats the right things. A sharp reprimand
and a quick and immediate discipline is in order when you catch
him at the wrong chew toys. You don't want to stress him more by
smacking him, although a rolled up newspaper banged on a hard
surface is a quick attention getter. Never strike him with it.
He will make it his mission to eat it if you do in an effort to
eliminate an already stressful period.

Try to identify the stressor and relax him around the problem.
If you can get him comfortable enough around the new baby to lie
down even when the baby is crying, you have made strides. If
there is tension in the house try to tone down the arguing, or
take it to an alternative room. If your dog can be comfortably
confined to an outdoor yard, that is the best option, but don't
get so wrapped up in your arguing that you leave him out there
for extensive periods of time. Whatever the stressor is that is
causing the chewing, try to get him comfortable and relaxed
around it. This may take some time, but relieving his anxiety
will also reduce the tension in your life as well.

Aggression

You know him as your sweet and loveable friend. Your friends
and neighbors know him as the terror on your doorstep who wants
to eat them. Aggression is not a nice quality in your dog.
Aggression comes from the desire to protect, and anything
perceived as a threat is going to be treated like one. For some
dogs this means anyone and anything that doesn't belong. He is
only trying to defend his home and his human family, but
aggression is a serious behavioral problem that needs to be
nipped in the bud.

Check your own behavior. How are you reacting to him when he is
growling and carrying on at the neighbor as she walks by your
house? Make sure the words "good boy" are the last thing your
dog hears. "Be a good boy," or "That's not a good boy," are not
deterrents. Neither is "Shh."

Mild mannered people tend to have more aggressive dogs because
their tones are not consistent with command. If your dog doesn't
believe you enough to listen to you, he certainly isn't going to
believe you can take care of yourself. I can't tell you how many
times our pups have been accosted on the street with an owner
telling their dog that it's ok. It's not okay. The words you are
looking for are firm and sharp and sound like "Sit" and "No."
One word firm commands are much more effective than reasoning.
Aggression is a serious offense and it must be treated as one.
We have one dog who got a little out of control. When sitting
wasn't getting him under control on his nightly walk we actually
went to making him lie down. Right there on the street or
sidewalk we commanded our German Shepard to lie down to get his
attention and then added a "Quiet" command to get our point
across. His aggression quieted down in a week.

Some dogs do better if they can at least see what's going on
even if they can't be a part of the process. Aggressive dogs are
really protective dogs. The delivery man might not want your
growling, snarling beloved pet to join you on the porch, but he
might do better if he has a place he can be directed to sit and
watch provided he stays quiet. Constantly sequestering him does
nothing to solve the problem.

The Overbearing Overgrown Puppy

He is happy to see you. You are his toy and his best friend and
he will pummel you over in an attempt to play with you. He has
run over the children and covered the cat with his doggie
saliva. You love him, but wow does his energy get annoying
sometimes. It's hard to talk to someone one the phone when he's
jumping on you and wrapping his big paws around you and forget
leaving the house looking presentable.

He is the puppy who never grew up. His body got big, but he
seems intellectually stuck at four months old. Most of the time
this behavior is a matter of dominance. When a dog views you as
his alpha leader, he gives you respect. When you are his peer,
you are his play mate. Alpha leaders are by nature a food
related dominance. Of course other factors play into it as well,
but to a dog food is leadership. If you are not already the
dog's food source, consider taking on that responsibility.

Establish yourself as a leader. This isn't all that hard to do
and you don't even have to stop playing with him in order to do
it. Start by giving him random commands, especially around
feeding time. With his food in your hand tell him to sit. With
the food in the bowl and the bowl on the floor tell him to wait,
and then make sure he follows through. When he has looked to you
for permission, allow him to commence eating.

Slowly add random commands throughout the day and rebuke rough
playing immediately. If he wants to play, he has to sit and wait
for things rather than tackle you. You can just as easily give
him commands with playtime as you can any other time. A few
commands before you throw the ball is usually enough to get the
right message across as you are establishing dominance.

Interpreting Your Dog

Understanding your dog's behavior isn't quite as mystifying as
it seems. He really is doing his best to tell you. Watching his
communication with other people and animals in the household can
really open your eyes to how he expresses himself.

A dog wags his tail to express happiness, yawns when he is
content, and growls when he is threatened. With over one hundred
facial expressions, he is constantly telling you something. The
more you get to know your dog the more you will learn what he is
telling you.

Owning a dog is a wonderfully joyous experience. They bring so
much into our world which is why so many people have them. They
look to us to tend to their needs. We owe it to them to give
them at least our very best shot at keeping them safe, healthy,
and happy.

About The Author: David Beart is the owner of
http://www.professorshouse.com. Our site covers pets, dog
training, finances, family, cooking and other household issues.

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How to Puppy-Proof Your House: Safety for Your pup, peace of mind for you

Title: How to Puppy-Proof Your House: Safety for Your pup, peace of mind for you
Author: Moses Wright

How to Puppy-Proof Your House: Safety for Your pup, peace of mind for you
If you've decided to bring your puppy home, that's just the
first step. You need to get your house ready for him.
You're going to have lots to do around the house. After
all, puppies are not so different from toddlers and like
children, will want to explore all areas of your house.

But how do you know if your house is safe and ready for
your new puppy? Listed below is a checklist for you to take
note of before you bring your new puppy home:

1. Clear your house of poisonous items - Have you cleared
your house of all poisonous items and taken them out of
your pup's reach? If you haven't, now is the time to put
away cleaners, laundry detergents, bleach, disinfectants,
insecticides, cleaning fluid, fertilizers, mothballs and
antifreeze in cabinets or high up on shelves. Of course, as
he grows, and if he has an adventurous streak, he's sure to
jump high on to your shelves to find out what's where.

2. Secure all medications and unauthorized foods - These
items will cause food poisoning or damages to your dogs'
health - Drugs such as Motrin and Tylenol causes liver
damage. Common household food items that are harmful
include alcoholic beverages, avocado (the only "fatty"
member of the vegetable family), coffee, salt, yeast dough,
garlic, fatty foods - turkey, artificial sweeteners –
Xylitol, potatoes, onions, nuts, chocolate, grapes and
raisins.

3. Uproot all life-threatening plants - Do you have
life-threatening plants at home? Seemingly harmless plants
such as apricot pits, spinach and tomato vines are
dangerous to your pup. You can find a detailed listing of
poisonous houseplants that you might have in your family,
at this site: www.vet.purdue.edu/depts/addl/toxic/cover1.htm

You can also ask your vet for more such plants that could
affect your pet's health and life - If your puppy has
ingested poisonous plants, contact: Animal Poison Control
Center at - 888-4ANI-HELP - (888-426-4435)

4. Put away dangerous objects - Position electrical cords
out of your puppy's reach, so that he cannot chew them.
Pick up and keep dangerous loose items such as nails if
they are lying around. Put away all sharp objects such as
wires, sewing needles and pins, far away from your puppy's
reach. This is to prevent your puppy from swallowing them
as such items can harm his mouth and internal organs.

5. Supervise your puppy's movement - Don't let your pup
remain by himself, unsupervised for long, irregardless of
him being indoors or outdoors. Also, remember to keep him
away from balconies, upper porches and high decks or he may
just slip through the railings and fall. Remember to keep
your toilet cover seat down: puppies sometimes like to play
in water. Frolicking in the toilet bowl is harmful for him
as he may swallow the toilet cleanser. Also, don't tie
ribbons round his neck because he may chew it and this can
lead to digestive problems or choke himself if the ribbon
gets snagged on other things.

Preparing the Essential Dog Supplies

1. Food and water bowls - Select solid and stable bowls
that won't tip over when he eats or drinks out of it. Are
they easy to clean? Buy one each for food and water.
Initially, buy small bowls and then as he grows older, buy
him larger ones. If you do this, he won't develop the habit
to overeat for his age nor will he fall into his water bowl
whenever he goes to take a drink.

2. Collar - There are a large variety of lightweight
collars available for your puppy. No matter which one you
choose, attach an identification tag, listing your puppy's
name, your address and phone number.

Let his first collar be made of lightweight nylon or
leather. To get a good fit, you should measure his neck
properly. To do so, measure the circumference of his neck
and add two inches to it. To be sure that the collar fits
properly, slide two fingers between his collar and your
pup's neck. If it's a snug fit, the size is right. But if
there's too much space, you need a smaller collar. If your
fingers don't fit in comfortably, the collar size is way
too small. Your pup may take a little while to adjust to
his collar, so give him time to get used to it.

3. Leash - Leashes come in many lengths and styles, such as
leather, nylon and retractable leashes. If you buy a
six-foot leash it would serve both as a leash for training
and walking.

Always keep your puppy on a leash unless he is in your
fenced-in yard. In many parts of the U.S., leash laws
prevail, making it mandatory to keep your puppy on his
leash at all times. If he's unleashed, you may be fined.
Should he soil or defecate in a public space like a park,
you will be expected to clean up after him.

4. Grooming supplies - Grooming him means investing in a
number of tools but this will depend on the dog breed you
buy and his coat length. For short haired breeds, do invest
in a brush with natural bristles, a rubber currycomb or a
hand mitt. Sturdy wide-toothed metal combs, flea combs and
mat splitters are needed for long haired breeds.

5. Toys - To entertain and exercise your pup, buy him a few
toys, as this will help him exercise and get over their
cravings for chewing. Choose toys specifically designed for
pups – ones that can't be splintered, torn or swallowed.
What's fun and safe to have are rawhide chips, nylon chews
and hard rubber balls. And, if they don't fit comfortably
in his mouth, it's not right for him.

6. Recommended puppy food - Give him his essential
nutritive foods and get him used to a feeding schedule.
Seek advice from your breeder directly or from your
veterinarian.

7. Crate or sleeping bed - A Crate is basically a big cage
made of metal, plastic or wood. Available in many sizes,
the crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up,
turn around easily, as well as lie down in. It should be
airy. You should set up his sleeping area in a warm and
comfortable place. A crate serves very well as a den in
your absence from the house. A crate could also be a
portable crate enclosed in plastic or a simple wire crate.

When you buy an adult-sized crate, also buy partitions, or
place a cardboard box in the back to serve as a cozy space
for him. Apart from the crate, set up a sleeping area for
him, for the times when you are at home and the crate is
not in used. Buy a puppy-sized bed instead of an
adult-sized bed, so that he is safe and snug.

When used properly, crates encourage good sleeping habits,
discourage mischief and help to house train your dog. It
can also be a safe confinement for your dog when he's not
supervised at home or when you are driving. A crate is so
useful, every owner should have one!

8. Stain and scent remover - To take the odor away from his
nose, buy a stain and scent remover. This helps in house
training and the maintenance of your house cleanliness.

These are the basic essentials a puppy owner should prepare
when bringing a brand new pup home. Do take the time to
ensure that your house has been `puppy-proofed' and you
will find that the preparation will make socializing your
new puppy a lot easier!

About the Author:

Moses Wright has been a dog lover since young and now he
loves to help fellow dog owners solve their dog problems
whenever he can. You can get a free copy of his book filled
with useful and practical tips here:
http://www.dogsobediencetraining.com/dogger_enews.htm

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Vaccinations and Your Dog

Title: Vaccinations and Your Dog
Author: Debbie Ray

Vaccinations and Your Dog
It is very important to vaccinate your dog and it is also a
very important part of a total dog health care program.
However knowing what to vaccinate for and how often to give
your dog vaccines are two very important questions. Regular
vaccinations can prevent your dog from contracting many
diseases. Overall, the two most important viruses to
vaccinate for are canine parvovirus and canine distemper.

Most vets agree that it is vital to vaccinate puppies at 6
weeks of age and again at 8, 12, and 16 weeks for
Distemper, Canine Infectious Hepatitis, Leptospirosis,
Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, and Coronavirus (DHLPPC). It is
suggested that puppies are also vaccinated for rabies at
six months and then to be repeated annually.

Although your new puppy may squirm or even cry when getting
his vaccinations, it is just as important for your dog as
it is for your children to receive these "annual shots".
In fact, by keeping up to date on your dog's vaccinations,
you could be saving his life. Basically, vaccinations are
injections of a small dose of a specific disease, which
will prevent your puppy from developing that very disease
by creating the necessary antibodies to fight it off later
in life.

Some dog owners have concerns whether the repeated dog
vaccinations are really necessary and whether they are
doing more harm than good. Vaccinations work by
stimulating the dog's immune system, encouraging it to
readily produce antibodies to fight against many specific
types of bacterias and viruses.

Stimulating the dogs immune system this way does come at a
price when the actual introduction of the offending agent
in some form to the dog's system leads to illness. Once
vaccinations are given, your dog's immune system will
recognize the presence of a disease and will then create
antibodies to fight it off. These antibodies only last
from six months to a year, which makes regular vaccinations
extremely important for your puppy or dog.

The question on the minds of many pet owners is usually -
"is it dangerous to repeatedly vaccinate my dog each year"?
Fortunately the experts do agree that the answer to this
question is a resounding "no."

While there are rare cases of dogs that have become very
ill or even died as a result of receiving a vaccination,
there is no evidence to suggest that this practice poses
any real danger generally speaking. Oftentimes, the dogs
that are adversely affected to vaccines may have already
been sick or have some form of allergy to a specific part
of the vaccine.

When using a vaccine that must be mixed first, there are
four simple steps to follow. First: mix the vaccine by
withdrawing all of the liquid from the appropriate vial and
then injecting it into the vial containing the dried
portion of the vaccine. Remove the syringe, shake the vial
to mix up the vaccination, re-insert the needle and then
withdraw the entire 1 ml contents of the mixed vaccination.

Two different types of vaccinations exist which are a
Killed Vaccine and a Modified Live Vaccine. A Modified
Live Vaccine is the live disease being injected, while
having been altered by the drug company to be unable to
cause the disease it is protecting against. A Killed
Vaccine is when the virus itself has been killed before any
injection occurs.

Most vaccinations are administered subcutaneously (by
injecting the vaccine just under the skin). One of the
best areas is located in the shoulder or neck area. Simply
lift a tent of skin into a triangle with one hand, and
inject the vaccine with the other hand. Note: always use a
separate sterile needle and syringe for each dog and also
for each injection, and then dispose of all used needles
and syringes in a safe location.

I feel that the best advice I can offer is that dog owners
continue vaccinating their dogs according to local laws and
the recommendations of their veterinarians. Since the
annual vaccines are not harming dogs in any evident way,
there is no cause for alarm and no harm in continuing the
same routine until the veterinary community makes up its
collective mind that a change is in order with regard to
dog vaccinations. In the mean time, a little prevention can
go a long way to keep your dog healthy.

Copyright 2007 • Debbie Ray • All Rights Reserved.

About the Author:

Debbie Ray, owner of http://www.total-german-shepherd.com ,
http://www.pedigreedpups.com ,
http://www.pedigreeddogs.com and
http://www.the-website-doctor.com is a lifelong animal
lover and owns several internet businesses. Want to learn
how to build a website? Thinking about getting a purebred
dog? The German Shepherd? Promote your dog related website?
Check my sites out for to learn more.

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