The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

In order to understand why your puppy doesn't listen to you
at times, you need to understand each stage of development
a puppy goes through as it matures.

Let's take a look at the different stages, but before we
do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations –
each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to
three weeks, and it's during this time that your puppy's
eyes will open, and he'll slowly start to respond to light
and movement and sounds around him. He'll become a little
more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet
underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever
home is.) He'll start to recognize mom and his littermates,
and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to
about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory
development during this time. Fully alert to his
environment, he'll begin to recognize you and other family
members. It's best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes
during this period – negative events can have a serious
impact on his personality and development right now.
Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it's
essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks

>From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social
development period of his life – he learns social
interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and
learns bite inhibition. He'll also learn discipline at this
point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time,
and will start teaching them basic manners, including
accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to
introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week –
transition gradually as Mom weans them.

Continue handling the pups daily, but don't separate them
from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10
minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too
early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and
biting and have a more difficult time with socialization
and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings
until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little
longer - for optimum social development. Experts say that
the best time in a puppy's life to learn social skills is
between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that's the window of
opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be
a well-adjusted dog. It's extremely important to leave your
puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this
period as possible. Don't discipline for play fighting,
housebreaking mistakes or mouthing – that's all normal
behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The "I'm Afraid of Everything" Stage 8 Weeks to 3
Months

The "I'm Afraid of Everything" Stage lasts from about 8
weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning
as well as a "fearful period" that usually pops up at
around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but
most do, and they'll appear terrified over things that they
took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in
harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud
voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy's bladder and bowels are starting
to come under much better control, and he's capable of
sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some
rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come,
sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It's
important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at
this time, as he'll continue to learn behaviors and manners
that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage 3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of
age, and it's during this time your puppy is most like a
toddler. He'll be a little more independent - he might
start ignoring the commands he's only recently learned –
just like a child does when they're trying to exert their
new-found independence. As in "I don't have to listen to
you!" Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and
training is what's required here.

He might start biting you – play biting or even a real
attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp "No!" or "No
bite!" command, followed by several minutes of ignoring
him, should take care of this problem.

Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis,
but don't play games like tug of war or wrestling with him.
He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance –
especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that
can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy's strength
grows, he's going to want to play-fight to see who's
stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives
is that it's ok to fight with you. And that's not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until
about 6 months, and it's during this time your puppy will
demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may
see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see
more "testing the limits" type of behaviors. He'll be going
through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be
looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and
pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during
this period.

He may try to assert his new "dominance" over other family
members, especially children. Continue his training in
obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let
him off his leash during this time unless you're in a
confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore
commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a
dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog's response to
you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts,
the chances of injury or even death can result – so don't
take the chance.

He'll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought
about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs
of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you
haven't already, you should have him neutered during this
time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage 6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18
months, and is usually a great time in your dog's life -
he's young, he's exuberant, he's full of beans – and yet
he's learning all the things he needs to become a
full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time
– just because he's approaching his full growth and may
look like an adult, he's not as seasoned and experienced as
you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of
activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can
start more advanced training during this period, such as
herding or agility training, if that's something both of
you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to
include more people and other animals – allow him to
interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You've raised your puppy through the 7
stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have
a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you've raised a
kid, doesn't it?

About the Author:

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal,
well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command
and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:
http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj

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Keeping your Shih Tzu's face clean

Keeping your Shih Tzu's face clean

One of the biggest problems people who own Shih Tzus have is keeping
those lovely flowing mustaches and beards clean and smelling fresh.
Add the challenge of keeping tear stains off of the fur below your
little pup's eyes, and you have a time consuming job on your hands.
Luckily, there are a few tips and tricks that can help you keep your
Shih Tzu's face squeaky clean, at least between meals.

The first thing you may want to consider is whether you need to feed
your dog a soft food diet. Soft food and gravy stick to that long
mustache hair much more readily than dry food. However, if your pup
turns up her little pug nose at the sight of dry food, you can feed
soft food without destroying her mustache. Just be ready with a
washcloth or wet wipe as soon as she finishes eating so you can wash
all the food particles and gravy out of the hair before it drys and sets.

If your pup still has some food particles in her beard and mustache,
you may need to use a fine toothed comb to remove those small pieces.
A flea comb is ideal for combing out all of the crumbs. A no rinse dog
shampoo and a sponge can help you remove tough gravy stains.

Next, consider using a dog water bottle instead of a bowl to keep the
hair from getting so wet when your dog drinks. When your Shih Tzu's
chin hair is constantly damp, it can turn into a home for smelly bacteria.

Finally, to clean the hair under your dog's eyes, wipe the stained
spots with a damp sponge. It is important to clean these stains
frequently to avoid build up and smelly matted hair. You may need to
use tear stain remover on the tough spots that water alone isn't removing.

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Visit http://www.shihtzuplanet.com/ for more Shih Tzu information
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5 Ways Your Dog Senses The World Differently From You

5 Ways Your Dog Senses The World Differently From You

Do dogs sense things differently than humans do? Well, yes
and no. Dogs share the same basic senses with us: they see,
hear, touch, smell and taste. But the level of their senses
is different – an important distinction when you're trying
to figure out just what your dog is doing.

Sight It was once thought that dogs were "color-blind" –
only able to see shades of black and white with some grey,
but scientific studies have found that's not true. Dogs can
see in color – ranging from blues and greens to greys and
crèmes, and of course, black and white. It's been estimated
that humans can distinguish somewhere between 7 and 10
million different colors. (We don't even have names for
that many colors!)

Picture courtesy of Dr. P's site:
http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/dog.htm But dogs have it all
over humans in detecting motion – that's one reason they
can detect a cat up a tree at a much greater distance than
you can! And their night vision is typically better than
ours – dogs have an additional reflective layer in the eye
called the tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back into
the receptor cells of the eye, which not only increases
their night vision, but gives them that spooky appearance
of eyes glowing in the dark.

Hearing When your dog is barking like crazy in the middle
of the night, don't just assume he's lonely and wants you
to get up and keep him company. He may be listening to
something that you can't hear, that's extremely upsetting
to him – like a burglar breaking in your basement window.
Dogs can hear at four times the distance humans can – that
means you might hear something from a 100 yards away your
dog could hear from a quarter of a mile away. Their ears
are also better designed to gather more of the available
sound wave – they have 15 different muscles that move their
ears in all directions, plus they can move one ear at a
time – and independently of the other to absorb even more
information!

Touch Dogs also have a well-developed sense of touch,
surprising perhaps under all that fur, although this sense
is much less sophisticated than a human's. Puppies are born
with sensory receptors in their faces so they can find mama
even if they're separated before they open their eyes. But
they also can sense touch all over their bodies, just as
humans can. One reason your dog flops down on the couch
next to you and tries to snuggle up on a hot day (or any
other day for that matter!) is because he likes the comfort
of feeling that you're right there!

Smell We can't even come close to our dog's ability to
smell things. It's been estimated that a dog's sense of
smell is 100,000 times more powerful than a human's.
Scientists think that humans have about 40 million
olfactory receptors, versus 2 billion for your dog! That's
part of the reason dogs make such good trackers, and can
trace scents across all sorts of distractions – like across
roadways or through dense woods. Dogs also use their sense
of smell as a communications tool – when they're running
around the park with their nose to the ground, sniffing
everything in sight, they're actually reading the calling
cards of everyone – dogs, humans, cats, squirrels, and
anyone or anything else, that has been there before him.
Which is why he may not pay attention to you when you first
get to the park – he's trying to see if any of his buddies
have been there before him!

Taste Just as with humans, taste is closely linked to the
sense of smell – the main difference is humans won't eat
something that smells bad; while dogs are the opposite –
the smellier the better. Dogs will gulp first and ask
questions later. While humans many times won't eat
something that doesn't look appealing, let alone doesn't
smell good, dogs are more concerned with smell, than taste.
They frequently gobble down food before they have time to
chew it, let alone taste it. But that's ok – it's why when
we clean out our refrigerators our dogs think it's time for
treats.

So the next time your dog engages in some puzzling
behavior, whether it's barking for no reason, or ignoring
you at the park, he might not be trying to irritate you –
he's just responding to a different level of senses than
you are. Take a moment to look around and try and figure
out what's triggering his behavior before you get mad. Your
dog could be trying to tell you something!

About the Author:

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal,
well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command
and is the envy of the neighborhood,
visit:http://tinyurl.com/6u2cj

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How To Train A Dog Effectively

Article Title: How To Train A Dog Effectively
Author: Jason Ryan

A crucial and beneficial task to undertake with your dog is to
train it properly. Training allows you to connect with your dog
through communication. This connection is vital in directing
your dog to follow your commands, as well as establishing a
good lifelong relationship. Training is not the panacea for all
behavior issues, but it's a good foundational start.

Dogs are definitely social beings, but behave like wild animals
when not provided the proper training. This means your dog will
bite you, fight with other dogs, dig in the yard, bark too
much, damage your property and dirty your home. These canine
behavioral issues are actually normal dog activities, but the
timing and the subject of focus is all wrong. To illustrate
this, a dog must do its business outside, but does not wait and
goes on the rug instead. Perhaps the dog does not just bark at a
suspicious prowler, but barks the entire night instead. Or, the
dog prefers to gnaw on your shoes instead of the toys you've
provided. The critical message you must impart to your dog is
that these behaviors need to be redirected to the proper time
and place.

Training establishes the pecking order or "Alpha status" too.
Your dog shows respect to you just through simple compliance
for commands like "sit" and "come." However, you and your dog
should derive rewards and fun times from training. Proper
training makes living together a pleasurable and rewarding
experience. The well-trained canine actually can be given more
freedom and is a much more confident pet as compared to a dog
with no boundaries on behavior.

Your home is the venue where you should do the training. Don't
pick an area with a lot of distractions for your dog; it
should be an area your dog is used to. Once you are confident
that your dog has mastered a few compliance commands, you can
then move on to different locations. Remember that you want
people who visit to see your dog comply with all your commands.
What's the point if your dog sits on command in the backyard,
but does not do so when visitors are at your home? The big test
of dog training success is to see your dog respond to commands
in public places.

Dog obedience training lessons should be short on time, but
long on results. Scheduling long and meticulous dog training
sessions will only become tedious and unproductive in the end.
The best way to schedule dog training is to integrate it within
day-to-day activities. Your dog training sessions should be
structured so that both you and your pet derive benefit from
it. Integrate dog training sessions during activities your dog
loves, and your dog will associate those favorite activities
with the training. From your dog's perspective, it should see
that everything is training and training is everything.

You will find that the most profound theme in that dog training
should be rewarding to your dog for the appropriate responses.
The speed at which the dog learns is directly associated with
the frequency of rewards. This means that practice will involve
rewarding good behaviors in quick succession. Never take your
dog's good behavior lightly and make sure that praise is given
quickly. If a dog barks too much, it always gets attention, but
we fail to notice our dog acting properly at times. It is human
nature to focus on the bad behaviors and ignore the good. But
with dogs, a system of proper actions and quick rewards are
vital for the prevention of future problems.

Dogs get exasperated too when all they hear is, "No, get down,
bad dog!" The constant nagging also has a tendency to make a
dog apathetic to your commands. If there is a consistent system
of rewards for appropriate behavior, then when your dog behaves
badly and gets scolded, it has a greater impact. Remember to
not just scold your dog, but show what you desire from it and
immediately reward the behavior when done right. For example,
you can show your dog its own toys right after scolding it for
chewing on some household item. You can get excited about the
dog's toys and give a reward when the dogs play with them.

The tone of your voice, if used properly, is all that is needed
for correcting bad behavior. Stick to reprimands that are
concise, short and quick, and avoid nagging. Do not scold your
dog if you have not caught the wrong behavior right away, as it
will have little meaning after some time has passed. Late
reprimands do little good and can even worsen the wrong
behavior in your dog. Inappropriate reprimanding can make your
dog aggressive, timid, afraid of the raised hand, and apt to
chew and bark excessively.

About The Author: Jason Ryan is a longtime dog lover and pet
owner. He has a great deal of experience raising dogs, and has
written numerous articles on how to train dogs. Visit the
website http://www.training-a-dog.com to read about the most
effective dog training guides.

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Favorite Large Dog Breeds

Favorite Large Dog Breeds

There are many people who love large dogs. That is obvious
by the number of large dog breeds listed in the AKC top ten
favorite dog breeds. The Top Ten list includes Labrador
Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Golden Retrievers, and
Boxers. And since Poodles are eighth in the list, you could
say that five large breeds are in the top ten since
Standard Poodles average over 50 pounds.

Why are so many large dogs found in the top ten when they
can appear so intimidating, cost a lot more to feed than
smaller dogs, require more room, and require firmer
training than, say, a Pug or Pomeranian?

There is something special about having a large dog. Unless
you have owned one of the large dog breeds you might not
understand the feeling owners get calling this large dog
"friend" and "companion." Many of the large breeds are also
among the most gentle breeds.

With the exception of the German Shepherd Dog, Weimaraners,
Rottweilers and the Doberman Pinscher, every large dog
listed below is extremely affectionate (rating four or five
stars out of a possible five). Many of the largest breeds
seem to be the most affectionate and gentle, while others
among the largest breeds, such as the Rottweiler and German
Shepherd Dog, are terrific guard dogs.

The top ten favorite large dogs are not, for the most part,
the giants of the dog world. After all, Irish Wolfhounds
and St. Bernards, among the biggest and heaviest dogs, are
39th and 77th on the AKC list of favorite dogs. Still,
Great Danes, only a few inches smaller than the Irish
Wolfhound, occupy the position of 24th favorite, and
Mastiffs (a breed that can weight about 190 pounds, just
below the St. Bernard) are 32nd favorite.

Here is the list of top ten with 11th and 12th thrown in
for good measure:

Labrador Retriever (1st) German Shepherd Dogs (3rd) Golden
Retrievers (4th) Boxers (7th) Rottweilers (17th) Pointers,
German Shorhaired (19th) Doberman Pinschers (21st) Great
Danes (24th) Siberian Huskies (25th) English Springer
Spaniel (26th) Weimaraners (30th) Mastiffs (32nd)

Considering that there are 155 dogs listed in the American
Kennel Club (in 2006), it is a significant achievement to
be listed in the top 30. Eleven of the large dog breeds
accomplish this, with Mastiffs coming in close behind at
position 32. And note that large breeds occupy three of the
top four positions, which is really impressive.

But why are these large dogs so popular even though they
require more space, more food, and often more energy to
control than little Chihuahuas (number 11) or Pugs (number
13)? The fact is some people prefer large dogs over small.
Who can argue that a Mastiff or Great Dane does not elicit
awe and admiration from everyone who sees one? They are
very imposing dogs.

Yet despite their size most of these large dogs are very
gentle and affectionate. Imagine a Mastiff with the
temperament of a typical Chihuahua. Just the thought is
frightening. Instead, the Mastiff is among the most lovable
and gentle dog breed.

The Labrador Retriever is so far ahead of all the other
breeds in popularity that it will be awhile before any
other breed overtakes them, if it ever happens at all. No
matter how you look at it, large dogs are among the most
favorite dog breeds in the United States.

About the Author:

Discover great information about dogs, dog training, dog
breeds, and dog care at http://www.christysdogportal.com ,
brought to you by two dog enthusiasts. Carol Stack has been
working with dogs for more than three decades. Carol and
her daughter Christy have created this Web site especially
for dog lovers.

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Tips For Grooming Your Curly Or Wavy Coated Dog

Article Title: Tips For Grooming Your Curly Or Wavy Coated Dog
Author: Philipe Sparks

There are many different breeds of dogs out there. The choices
are too numerous to count. With each breed of dog you also have
different colors of coat they will have, and the texture of
their coat. Some dogs have short hair while others have long.
Some breeds have a straight coat, while others are wavy or
curly.

Tamming the Curls

No matter which dog you choose, you will need to know how to
properly groom them. If you have a dog that has a wavy or
curly coat, you will want to know how to take care of their
coat properly. A dog with a curly or wavy coat will take more
time and attention to keep looking good than a dog with
straight hair.

When caring for a dog with curly hair you will want to make
sure you keep the coat a good length. If you let the coat get
too long it will get tangled easily, and twigs and debris will
get stuck in it. This is especially important to people who
show their dog, or use their dog for hunting. It is easier for
your dog to be helpful while hunting if he has a coat that is
well maintained.

Cutting the Curls

Most curly haired dogs will need to have their coat cut. Two
inches is the best length for the dogs coat. It does take time
and practice to master cutting your dogs hair. Some people
choose just to use a buzzer, this is an easy fast way of
cutting your dogs coat. Others choose to use a scissor, which
takes more practice. If your dog is going to be in dog shows
you may want to take them to a place that specializes in dog
grooming.

Here are a few things to keep in mind when grooming your dogs
coat yourself, or between visits to the dog groomer. First you
will want to make sure you brush the dogs entire coat to get rid
of as dead coat as you can, this also gets rid of the tangles.
A pin brush and or slicker brush usually work the best for
this. Next you will want to use a comb to make sure you get
every tangle. To ensure that you do not rip any hair out you
will want to take your time.

After you are sure you have removed all the dead hair, and the
tangles you are ready to proceed with the cutting. The first
thing you will want to do is remove any extra hair. Remember
you should leave the hair about two inches long, and it should
be a pretty even cut. Now you will want to proceed to the
foot, and the foot pads. You will want to cut any excess hair
from between the paws, the make the paw blend in with the leg
hair.

After you have finished with the legs and paws you are ready to
continue towards the torso. You will want to make sure you cut
off excess fuzz, and shape the hair in a way that flatters your
breed of dog. You will want to make sure you take your time and
do a good job. Stop periodically to look at you work. Having a
picture of your breed of dog will be a big help. This way you
have an idea of what you are going for.


After cutting your dogs hair you will want to give your dog a
bath. After the bath all you need to do is towel dry your dog.
By towel drying you are allowing the dogs natural curls to
show. This will look much better than if you try and blow dry
it.

About The Author: When shopping for grooming equipment, a good
place to find quality pet supply companies is the Yahoo
Directory. Here is the link to the Pet Equipment Category:
http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Animals/Dogs/Supplies__Equipment__and_Gifts/?b=200

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How To Prepare For Your New Puppy

Article Title: How To Prepare For Your New Puppy
Author: Terry Roberts

One of the most exciting events for a family or an individual
is bringing home a new puppy. Unfortunately, many people don't
organize themselves or their home for the new arrival. There
are several things that can be done to make your puppy's first
few hours in its new home pleasant and enjoyable. Most of the
activities are very simple and will just require a few minutes
of time and attention to complete.

Having the right supplies

The following items should be purchased and set up prior to the
puppy's or puppies' arrival:

Stainless steel or rigid plastic non-tip food and water bowls
Crate of the appropriate size
Soft, washable bedding for inside the crate
Variety of chew toys and play toys
Leash or lead and collar of the appropriate size
Food that is the same as the puppy or puppies are currently
being fed (same brand, flavor, etc

In addition, depending on your house or puppy room area, you
may also need to get some baby gates to contain the puppy in a
specific room or to prevent them from going up or down stairs.

Safety considerations

Puppies are a lot like small children: they will want to
investigate everything. Puppies learn by chewing and mouthing
as much as they learn by looking and smelling. By spending a
bit of time puppy-proofing your home you can be assured that
your puppy will be safe. The following are puppy-proofing tips:

Remove all electrical cords from the puppies' reach. This means
that they may have to be disconnected from the wall and the
appliance moved. Puppies may chew on the cord either at the
wall or the appliance end so it is easiest to remove the
appliance to protect the cord and keep the puppy safe if the
wire is plugged in.

Remove or pull up all hanging items such as tablecloths, floor
length curtains, curtain or blind pulls, hanging plants or
other items that dangle temptingly in the puppies' reach.
Curtain and blind pulls are especially dangerous as they can
easily become wrapped around the puppies' neck.

Remove all houseplants. Many common houseplants are poisonous
to dogs. Unless you know for sure that the plant is not
poisonous remove it from the room. Most puppies will naturally
chew on plants, so if you want the plant to remain intact
removing it's the best idea.

Remove all shoes, backpacks, leather items, remote controls,
cordless phones, children's toys, stuffed animals, throw
pillows or anything else that could potentially be fun to play
with.

Remember that while puppies are very energetic, you don't need
to puppy proof the whole house, just the rooms that he or she
will be in unsupervised. Crate training is a great way to
minimize the amount of puppy proofing that needs to occur to
keep your new arrival safe and healthy.

Be sure that the puppy is allowed to settle into the area and
that they're given appropriate times to go outside to relieve
themselves. Puppies usually will need to go outside at least
every three hours, and usually within 20 minutes of eating or
drinking. After napping or after playing they'll also need to
be taken outside. By allowing lots of trips outside and
positively praising them for relieving themselves in the right
area, you'll find that housetraining is not difficult.

Special care for puppies involves a lot of prevention. Be sure
to get down on the floor and look around at what might be fun
for a puppy to chew on or might pose a safety hazard. Have the
food, water, toys and crate ready when your puppy gets home and
you and your puppy or puppies will be off to a great start
together.

About The Author: Terry Roberts is a professional translator
and linguist, with a wide range of interests. To read more
about preparing to welcome your new puppy - and about dogs in
general - visit his website http://www.livingwithadog.com

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